07/03/2023
Chapter 6
My first Whisky trip (Part 1)
A shared dram has a different taste, and if you share a dram in the place where it’s made, it generates a unique experience which you’ll carry with you forever.
This trip has been only few days…but it’s so dense of events and inspirations that I’ll split in 2-3 episodes…let’s see
How did we loose Peppino
July 2021. Everything was booked. Everything was ready. What can possibly go wrong? COVID of course again. Peppino went to London and was caught by track and trace. He was not positive, but had to drop last minute.
And like in the best Top Gear specials, me and Leo left him there with himself, and replaced him with Daniel. Sad not to have your best malt mates on your first whisky journey, but considering what came after, it was the right choice.
The overnight travel
We left Coventry at the beginning of the night. I like driving overnight and it allowed us to maximise the time in Scotland. As I drives past the boarder I put my Corries playlist starting from Flower of Scotland. I had that inner excitement that you normally have before a big match of your favourite team. It was keeping me awake.
Once drove past Glasgow, we got to Loch Lomond at the earliest lights of the day. What an amazing spot on earth that is! Turning left to Inveraray…a great frugal breakfast at the Tipsy Leaird, and then we carried on south…if you know Scotland you know where we were going…Campbeltown!
Meeting with an amazing stranger
We got to town on a Friday morning, when shops were just about to open. We had a nicely rewarding second breakfast at The Coffee Stop Cafe – recommended. We still had about an hour or so before our Springbank distillery tour, so we decided to wander around.
A wee walk around the block and a nicely dressed gentleman smiled and greeted us. A few more steps later, whilst we were admiring the nice courtyard at Glengyle distillery, the gentleman met us again. We started talking. We spoke about many things. Mainly whisky of course but also football with the forthcoming euro cup final England vs Italy. A big Italian flag on a post was revealing the local sentiment.
He told us so much about Glengyle, Springbank, future plans…he showed us the hole in the wall where the Killerran logo comes from. He dedicated so much of his time to “waste” with us. I was so grateful. I was thinking what a greatly welcoming population they have here in Campbeltown for a stranger to show so many details to tourists.
We’ll meet this stranger later in Cadenhead’s shop (see mention) – he was no random stranger he was Neil Clapperton – Managing Director of Springbank Whisky… I felt even more grateful and humbled for the time he dedicated to us.
Springbank distillery visit
Simply put, if you can do only one distillery visit in your life, this is the one. If you want to see how traditional whisky is made the old way the art and the craft…you have to visit Springbank!
Personally, learning how it’s made gives me an extra level of connection with what I’m drinking. Here I don’t intend to explain the process but the unique sensations I had whilst looking at the process.
I was amazed by the care, patience and mastery required to malt the barley. Spreading it, turning it, regulating the temperature simply by opening or closing the windows. I’m an engineer and am usually comfortable in understanding an industrial process. Here it was pure knowledge, experience…witchcraft in a sense.
The kiln showing the different amount of smokiness for Springbank, Longrow and Hazelburn. Explaining why you still get a touch of smoke in younger hazelburns which is absolutely fantastic.
Than the mighty red mill. An incredible piece of proper engineering the old style. So reliable the company failed. I really appreciated the connection with the local environment. Barley coming in and organically rich waste going back to the field to feed cattle… circular economy is nothing modern! It’s always been here!
Washback and pot still room is like looking at heart in a human body. Again high levels of experience, mastery to cut tails off the main spirit, control and regulate as it goes along in the distillation.
Finally where the whisky is really made, the casks…hidden away in various warehouses…dormant spirit soaking all the magic from the casks.
Finally the bottling which we haven’t seen. But I love their slightly imperfect labels. Some may see this as a snag, but I do actually love the fact every single label as those little imperfections in the same points…have you ever noticed?
Ardshiel Hotel
After some generous purchases from both the distillery shop and Cadenhead’s shop we could have stopped. Glen Scotia was still closed to visitors at the time and the Washback Bar wasn’t open yet.
However, before heading north we had a last visit to pay…the Ardshiel hotel.
What a fascinating whisky bar! We had a quick bite and tried some mind blowing drams we’ll hardly try ever again. Hazelburn 13 Oloroso, Hazelburn 9 Barolo, Kilkerran WIP 3 and WIP 4, Kilkerran 8 Sherry Wood Open Day 2016, Kilkerran Heavily Peated Batch 2. Luckily we have some of the other releases available by the dram!
Happy satisfied grateful we head north to Kennecraig for our ferry to whisky land…Islay
Drams
and more...
Today's drams
- Hazelburn 13 Oloroso – 47.4%
- Hazelburn 9 Barolo – 57.9%
- Kilkerran WIP 3 – 46%
- Kilkerran WIP 4 – 46%
- Kilkerran 8 Sherry Wood Open Day 2016 – 56.4%
- Kilkerran Heavily Peated Batch 2 – 60.9%
Cadenhead's
They are probably one of the best independent bottler. Definitively the oldest. Their shop in Campbeltown is always a discovery and their membership is really good value for money. They offer some amazing dram ranging from single malts to blends and rums. Their welcoming and knowledgeable staff is always really helpful and they do offer some amazing tasting experiences! You’ll see these in future chapters.
The Ardshiel Hotel
It’s hard to find a better Whisky Bar in the world. Great and wide selection of malts from Campbeltown but not only. Welcoming and kind staff. Good food and an amazing beer garden when the weather is clement. A must stop for whisky lovers.