10/05/2023
Chapter 10
My first Whisky trip (Part 3)
What a crazy day this was…pure magic madness!
First a visit and a tasting in probably one of the most fascinating corners of Islay. Then food, drinks and football…brace yourself for part 3 of my first whisky Trip (Part 1 and Part 2 if you missed them).
After the usual rewarding breakfast at Lochside hotel, we set up north to Port Askaig. A quick unauthorised (oops) look at Caol Ila distillery (it was under some refurbishment) and we targeted…
Bunnahabhain Distillery
The narrow road taking us to Bunnahabhain is probably one of the most scenic on Islay. You get some of the most astonishing views on the Isle of Jura. Loch a’ Chnuic Bhric saying hello from the other side of the sea, and Beinn an Oir dominating the view. Descending down to the distillery, breathtaking looks at the bay made us stop the car for a good couple of minutes. These pirates have a lovely spot on earth to work in.
Parking the car and getting into the shop, we started to have a glimpse of what was coming next. A welcoming and friendly sensation as we walked passed the doors. A heart moving sight from the verandah’ patrolling the bay. A first greeting from our host David.
Before entering the sacred tasting room he gave us a quick look around. Access was still a bit restricted back then (Mr Covid), but here’s a pretty decent view of their stills…we’re so thankful to them for what they do.
Then it was time for our Warehouse 9 tasting. After this, Whisky tastings will never be the same, mainly thanks to David (see Drams and More section)
Warehouse 9 Tasting
If you’ve read my Chapter 3 at Deanston, the structure of this tasting was pretty similar. This time four single cask, cask strength mind blowing drams were waiting for us with probably one the best host for a whisky tasting you’ll ever find. He taught us so much about whisky making, Bunnahabhain supply chain and range, cask selection, the Sherry triangle, how sherry is made and more and more…over and beyond!
We started with a 2003 Re-charred bourbon hogshead poured at 45.5%. I must admit, at the time, I probably overlooked this one. I was more in my sherry monster days. It was a pretty good dram with plenty of butterscotch, apple and pear notes. Lots of American oak influence.
We then switched to a 2007 13 yo Manzanilla Butt at 54.2%. Dani fell in love and bought a bottle. Since then I have a soft spot for Manzanilla maturation followed by Palo Cortado and Fino probably. This was a pure banger! Since then, when I see Manzanilla and Bunna I’m always tempted to buy a bottle.
Third, a shocker. Pale in coulour. PX in taste. It was like going to eat at the Fat Duck. A 2004 17yo PX Noe at 54.1%. David explained to us a lot of details about sherry making, about PX being the sweetest sherry, and about Noe being a sort of a vintage PX. After 30 years it loses the colour, but not its taste. Lesson learnt for me was: colour can be deceiving, use all your senses.
Last but absolutely not least, a Moine (Gaelic for peat). Matured 9 years in ex-bourbon casks, then finished in PX, in the glass at 52.8%. It was love at first sip. I bought the bottle and killed it recently. This made my sherry peated period begin.
It was £40 for the tasting and it was absolutely great value for money. Amazing whisky, unique location and one of the greatest hosts of all times. I can’t wait to go back or to see Dave around at Grain & Glass perhaps.
Ardnahoe Distillery
With hearts and bags full of joy, we jumped next door to the newly built Ardnahoe Distillery. If you haven’t heard about them (yet) it is absolutely normal. They haven’t started selling their whisky yet.
You might have heard about Hunter Laing & Co, blenders and independent bottlers owner of Ardnahoe Distillery. First distillation started in October 2018 so I wouldn’t be surprised to start seeing a NAS coming out in the next year or so. Dear travellers, I’m pretty confident it’s going to be something to look out for.
First of all, the location is simply amazing. They get water from the nearby loch, they have some amazing views from the still room facing Jura (picture below). They have an architecturally pleasant structure, modern production system, the know-how of years in the whisky industry, support from Jim McEwan himself for the stills design. Watch this space all… I quite like the fact they haven’t rushed a first 3-years release out yet. This may suggest they’re might be waiting for the right quality moment rather than purely to cash-flow.
Whilst we wait, enjoy the views and pay them a visit. A must go if you’re on Islay.
The Final
Now. I don’t know where to start. As this was pure madness. We headed back to the hotel, had some dinner and took position at our table in the hotel’s bar waiting for the Euro Cup Final in Wembley: it was time for Italy vs England. The local sentiment was pretty clear as you can see from the picture below.
I had my usual “Avocardio socks”, Peppino on video call and it began. Few minutes later, England was in front. Our excited neighbours (some lorry drivers from Newcastle) were certain: it was finally coming home! Then all the rest of the match…if you’re into football you know what happened until… “Gigioooooo!!!” An explosion of joy. Beer flying everywhere. We were jumping up and down the room, on the tables, hugging locals who were all supporting Italy. It was like being back home. This is not about football of course but about how amazing people from Islay are.
We found ourselves dancing and singing in the streets of Bowmore, heading to another crazy encounter (crazy in a good way of course).
Big Luciani
Standing next to Bowmore hotel, our new best friend for a night “Luciani” was welcoming us. When he heard we were Italians, he showed us his two white Alfa (a 4C and a Stelvio) parked in front of the entrance. The picture below, courtesy of their website, has by chance one of the two tactically parked!
Walking in, walls full of whisky. Huge selection of over 1500 bottles. All from Islay and Jura distillery exclusive bottlings. Some really amazing pearls in there! You need to give them a visit if you’re around. In the rear garden, they were still watching the highlights. Some people were cheering, some other were not.
If you’re around and you want some quirky whisky experiences, give it a try… Lucci’s Whisky Bar (Bowmore Hotel). For some reason, an amazing Italian wannabe character on the Isle of Islay.
The lights of Lochindaal
The night ended pretty late, on Bowmore’s docks, singing and dancing with our new local friends for a night. And I wanted to close this magic tale with the notes echoing in the dark that night…notes I’ve carried away with me, for ever…cause always in my dreams I see the lights of Lochindaal.
Drams
and more...
Today's drams
- Bunnahabhain 2003 Re-charred Hogshead Warehouse 9 Tasting – 45.5%
- Bunnahabhain 2007 Manzanilla Butt Warehouse 9 Tasting – 54.2%
- Bunnahabhain 2004 1st Fill PX Noe Sherry Warehouse 9 Tasting – 54.1%
- Bunnahabhain 2004 Moine Warehouse 9 Tasting – 52.8%
- Bunnahabhain 12yo – 46.3%
- Bunnahabhain 18yo – 46.3%
- Bunnahabhain Aonadh 10yo – 56.2%
David Brodie
As we said, one of the best host for a whisky tasting so far. Follow him on instagram for all the latest stories from the verandah!
Ardnahoe Distillery
Family owned distillery on the East coast of Islay. Stunning views, great facilities, a must stop if you’re on Islay. Waiting for their first release…
Bowmore Hotel
Great host, great atmosphere, great whisky. Definetely worth adding on your whisky map if you’re on Islay. They’re on Instagram as well.