17/04/2023
Chapter 8
My first whisky trip (Pt.2)
Let’s carry on with my first whisky trip from Chapter 6…the ferry to port Askaig was more than just a physical trip. It was like entering Narnia through the magical portal in Professor’s Kirke’s house. Or passing through the wall in King’s cross station and seeing for the first time the Hogwarts express.
Last few miles to port Askaig were so damn scenic with the ferry gently sliding across the waters dividing Islay from Jura. Inner relaxation mixed with childish excitement pervaded me…
An amazing corner on earth
We got to the hotel in Bowmore quite late. The day was quite long and I went pretty much straight to bed.
In the morning…revelation! An amazing rewarding breakfast facing a sunny start of day on Loch Indaal. Calm, peaceful, precious corner of this planet. The staff from Lochside hotel was absolutely amazing. We felt so welcomed and looked after. Our room was nice and cosy, food was absolutely brilliant and whisky selection? Like a treasure. Full of old, hidden Islay gems we enjoyed exploring after the long days traveling across Islay…I’ll come back to those later on…
With the belly and the heart full of joy and food, we head down south for our first distillery visits…it was time for some peat…shall we?
The ‘smokey’ coast
Traveling from Bowmore to Port Ellen really tells you a lot about the island, its history, its natural beauty and resources. The wavy A846 cuts across fields of peat which are something you rarely see in other countries.
Descending towards the coastal village of Port Ellen, you cannot ignore the towering malting factory owned by Diageo, just next door to the sleeping Port Ellen distillery. Some may find this industrial entity not aligned with the peaceful naturalistic experience of Islay. I actually kind of liked it.
First of all, the smell of malt was so characteristic. You may find some of those notes in Islay whiskies, especially the younger ones. Second, this place creates the malted barley for most of the Islay production, which makes a lot of ‘supply chain’ sense, and a lot of whisky you find around the world comes from this malt. Third, which is true for all of the distilleries around the island, this factory gives work to many islanders who we cannot forget – the people behind the products. Meeting them was a real pleasure.
First stop was Lagavulin, with a pleasing cask strength tasting. If you like Lagavulin this is worth the stop. There are various different options you can choose from. Ours was the Cask Strength Tasting at £26.25 and bang for buck was alright.
Laphroaig and Ardbeg weren’t doing any tours or tasting at the time, but we had to stop nonetheless. Quite two different sensations. I personally felt quite welcomed at Ardbeg. A quick bite in the sunny courtyard, an unofficial walk-around and few takeaway drams to enjoy off-site.
After these three, we moved back up north the A846, turning left towards…
Kilchoman
We drove past the distillery, heading towards Machir Bay. Waiting for us, there was a Land Rover Defender branded after Kilchoman distillery. A short walk to the beach to start an extremely pleasant tasting of Kilchoman products.
The terroir
First of all, a note about the terroir. This is why I love visiting distilleries so much . Not necessarily looking at the process but everything around the physical place…the terroir. And Kilchoman has quite a special one.
The narrow B road that got us there was surrounded by barley fields owned by them providing barley for their 100% Islay releases. Loch Gorm is a sherry bomb lake, dark chocolate in colour, which explains why they called their darker release after it. Descending towards Machir Bay, little streams of water snake between sand and grass dunes revealing one of the nicest bays I’ve ever seen…
The drams
We sat on the beach and had a lovely tasting. Wind doesn’t help appreciate whisky notes but the saline iodine notes from the bay really made this a fresh and pleasant experience.
4 drams in the lineup helped me to meet Kilchoman whisky for the first time.
First, Machir Bay: bourbon casks, young but not too new-make-y. With its integrity presentation at 46%, it offers a nice citrus-toffee balance of sweet and sour that really made me look forward to the rest…
Second, Sanaig: similar age, same malt, different cask mix. An interesting comparison to appreciate the effect of casks. Baked apples, pears covered in cinnamon and caramel, a hint of peat especially on the palate and in the finish and that nicely balanced sweet and sour freshness.
Third, 100% Islay: very similar to Machir Bay, but probably a touch more marine, a touch more acidic on the palate with the same refreshing finish typical of Kilchoman.
Last but not least, Loch Grom: in a period where I was really into a good sherry cask, this struck me quite well. Not a monster, still young but clearly with some older quality casks in it. I had to buy a bottle of course…
Probably today, I’d buy an older cask strength release to appreciate the distillate identity which is something they’re really proud off. From what we tasted that day they’re quite right to be proud. We recommend keeping an eye on Kilchoman in the years to come.
A glorious end of the day
We had a quick visit to a closing Bruichladdich distillery shop where unfortunately there were no visits at the time. Nonetheless, they were really welcoming and offered us a couple of driver’s drams to enjoy back home, which was really appreciated given the restrictions.
We headed back to the hotel, for a lovely fresh seafood dinner and few bombs! That’s what they were. Just to quote a couple: Ardbeg Supernova 2019, Ardbeg Perpetuum, Bruichladdich 20 Year Old 1st Edition and a Black Art 06.01…rare expensive stuff…but we had to do it! Getting ready for the next day…
Drams
and more...
Today's drams
- Kilchoman Machir Bay – 46%
- Kilchoman Sanaig – 46%
- Kilchoman 100% Islay – 50%
- Kilchoman Loch Grom – 46%
- Ardbeg Supernova 2019 – 53.8%
- Bruichladdich Black Art 06.01 – 46.9%
Lochside Hotel
As said in the article, highly recommended for its excellent hospitality, friendly team, cosy rooms, stunning views, great food and, of course, impressive whisky selection. Quite strategic location as well on the Island if you need to drive around.